Marukoya

At Marukoya in Horikiri, skewers are grilled carefully one by one and served piping hot, inviting guests to settle in and savor the rhythm of the meal. Standouts on the menu include the specialty liver and tender chicken sasami (tenderloin), both demonstrating nuanced heat control. Sasami can be ordered skewered with plum paste or enjoyed as toriwasa, lightly blanched to showcase its delicate cut. When available, the chochin (unlaid egg yolk and fallopian tube) skewer is well worth ordering for the rich, concentrated depth that bursts across the palate.

Beyond the skewers, a lineup of well-tuned side dishes pairs naturally with drinks. The motsu nikomi keeps its focus entirely on pork offal and green onions, stewed until creamy and meltingly tender—a reliable opener for the table. Golden, crisp-fried "tulip" chicken wings, springy chicken hearts (kokoro), and grilled garlic skewers are equally tempting additions as the rounds progress.

A cold beer or a downtown-style highball made with shari-kin—frozen shochu shaved to a slush—makes an ideal starter. Enjoying local sake or green tea highballs while taking in the aroma of charcoal smoke makes for an evocative tavern evening. Seating comprises counter spots and traditional tatami-matted zashiki space in the back, suiting solo drinkers as well as small groups. Reserving in advance and bringing cash helps ensure a seamless visit without missing out on favored cuts.